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Jul 18, 2011

A Visitor's First Impression Of Israel

Tim Marshall from Sky News wrote an interesting piece describing a visitor's first impression upon arriving in Israel.
You get used to it after 20 years. The repeated questioning at the border crossings into Israel: The security checks, the passport being taken away. If you are of a certain frame of mind, you understand it as necessary measures for a country almost permanently in a state of conflict and one whose citizens are blown up in cafes and buses. What I can never get used to is how and why on an hourly basis, at the first port of entry, Israel portrays a negative image of itself to visitors from around the world.
I approached immigration control at Ben Gurion airport armed only with a passport full of visa stamps from Iran, Syria, Yemen, Libya, Egypt, Saudi Arabia etc. I knew the form, of course this would draw attention.
'Shalom' I said. 'Passport' said the officer in return. A good start. 'Please don't stamp it' I asked knowing that an Israeli stamp means you are not allowed into most Arab countries. He ignored me and went through the document for about three minutes without looking at me, then asked when was I in Syria, 'Two years ago' I replied, ' 'Exactly what dates?' - 'I don't know' - 'How can you not know when you were in Syria'? 'Two years ago. If you want the dates they should be on the visa.' I said. He looked at the passport again for about 2 more minutes without speaking, then picked up the phone. I waited another minute without him saying anything as the queue behind me grew restless. A man appeared and without saying a word to me or the officer, took my passport and walked off.
I knew exactly what was going on, and indeed why, but the sheer rudeness of the man had got to me. 'What's going on? I asked politely 'Follow him' said the officer. The man had vanished into the crowd. 'I cant see him' - 'Go and sit in that room' I went to sit in that room.
Afer 15 minutes of sitting in that room I went to find another room, any room with anyone in it who could tell me what was going on in and preferably begin a conversation with the word hello or Shalom. I found two officers chatting to each other and stood at their desk. Both women ignored me and carried on a conversation for about 3 minutes without acknowledging me even though I was the only other person present. I went back to my own room preferring the company. Then tried again. This time a women took my name and said she'd find out what was happening and directed me back to the original room.
Twenty minutes later another women arrived with my passport, checked my name, handed it to me, and walked off without saying anything. Again, I knew what has happening, I was free to go, but she hadn't said anything. I called her back: 'Does this mean I can go'? I asked. 'You can go' she said and walked off. So did I.
I'd tweeted some of this and a friend in the Israeli government called to ask if he could help. I said these things happen. He was angry that the Ben Gurion staff, despite years of being asked to improve their manners, were still behaving like officials from some tin pot banna republic. 'Just keep trying to get them to understand they are dealing with guests not criminals' I said.
That night I went for dinner in Ramallah in the West Bank and was idly leafing through my passport when I noticed, 19 pages in from where it says - 'Her Britannic Majesty's Secretary of State requests and requires in the name of Her Majesty ...to allow the bearer to pass freely and without let or hindrance' - was a stamp bearing the legend 'Ben Gurion Border Control. 14 07-2011. Visa Permit 3 months'. William Hague himself wanted me to to pass without hindrance, and despite specifically being asked not to stamp my passport - they had, thus rendering it virtually useless for work purposes. I have another, but that's hardly the point.
There are many points: Imagine the level of politeness directed at Palestinians at hot, dusty check points in the West Bank from young army men and women who are simultaneously bored and nervous.
We all know Israel has a negative image in many parts of the world for reasons you can argue are wrong or right. Israeli society is rough and ready, brusque and brash. It is also friendly, full of charity, creativity, and intelligence. It is the product of 4 thousand years of history and 100 years of building a modern country out of the swamps of the coastal areas and the scrubland of much of the rest. Deep down many Israelis are hurt by the the image they know they have. At Ben Gurion they should remember - first impressions count.
Shalom Haver.
I don't know if this is standard or unusual. Personally, I have never had a problem like that coming into Israel. I have found the clerks and guards to be fairly courteous and helpful when I am pleasant to them. if I smile and say good morning, the whole experience is fairly pleasant. Did he get this treatment because he had stamps i his passport from enemy countries? Maybe he was being unpleasant to them and impatient, despite what he says?

Regardless, while Israeli customer service and bureaucracy has improved over the years, there is definitely still room for improvement. However, I prefer the sometimes gruff behavior of Israeli security, while they get the job done fairly efficiently and fairly painlessly and invisibly, to most people at least, over the super-polite guards in airports like in the USA and other countries, such as those working for TSA, that are more concerned about being politically correct than dealing properly with security.

10 comments:

  1. I had a similar experience before I got married. For some reason my name had a black flag on it for awhile. They never told me why they would just walk off with my passport. I was a new oleh at the time and from Canada and never had any stamps from anywhere that is an enemy state.

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  2. Whats this about a 19% increase in electric bills?

    Starting back from this PAST Jane?

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  3. why does he think he gets to decide whether his passport is stamped or not?

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  4. I dont know what the law is, or if there is a law about this, but I do know that I have heard of this before. People who travel for business to countries that havin the stamp of Israel would be problematic usually have the option of requesting it not be stamped.
    I dont know if that is official policy or if they are just nicely promoting the ability to do business in these countries, but dont necessarily have to comply.

    As someone else said, why no0t make those other countries not stamp their stamps in his passport, so that he can come in to Israel..

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  5. The treatment he describes is pretty standard. There is no reason that our border control people can't acknowledge someone, and still be thorough. He isn't suggesting they be as chatty as waiters in a cafe. He is saying that there should just be the minimal acknowledgement that decency requires. He's absolutely right. And that impression does stick with people, as I've heard many times over the years. Notice, by the way, that the security people who actually question passengers and do the armed patrol in the terminal are more polite than the border control people.

    As for not stamping the Israeli visa in a passport, that has been a standard option for as long as I recall (going back to the 70s). http://www.goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Tourist+Information/Planning+your+trip/Visa.htm

    'Make' the Arab states not stamp a passport? There's a naive suggestion if I ever heard one. The point is that Israel has and does offer this option, and this guy got rudely treated and had his request ignored without ever giving him the dignity of a word of explanation. Silence or ignoring someone is the most eloquent way of saying 'you don't matter.' Not a good message to have conveyed.

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  6. So it seems that nothing has changed at ביקורת הגבולות בן גוריון in the last 45 years.

    Yet another good reason for asking for two passports: one for Israel and the other for the rest of the world.

    But - in the instance under discussion - Israel has lost yet another potentially good friend and ally.

    Who was it who said that "a smile and a good word go a long way"?

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  7. Ever since I was rudely banned from entering the UK on suspicion that I intend to work there, I couldn't care less how Brits are treated in Ben Gurion. It might be childish, but I'll never forget the humiliation the border police at Stansted put me through, and I never stepped foot in the UK ever since (that was 10 years ago).

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  8. Rafi, you have probably been taking the "Israeli passports" route... The distinction is similarly pronounced in the security line before getting on the plane - show an Israeli passport and the routine is much friendlier.

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  9. thats true. it has been many years since I traveled using the foreigners lines.

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  10. Israel is special. People need a separate passport to travel there. Also Israel can only mount a vigorous defense against existential threats, while every other country can mount a vigorous defense against all sorts of threats. Special ...

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